Screen Printing and Repeats

Digital printing as explained in my last post- is great- for some applications, but sometimes you need the texture and graphic definition that only screen-printing will allow. I have included some examples of the print I am developing for the collection. At the moment there is alot of playing around with colour combinations and scale (very important). It’s amazing how a chance colour combination can produce a surprise stripe or direction. I am aiming for more of a textural creation with these prints rather than a defined image, to add interest and depth to the fabrics that I have already purchased.

Digital Printing

Digital printing on fabric is very similar to regular inkjet printing, where the fabric is fed through a large printer, with dye cartridges that are used in combination to produce the image. As a designer it gives you loads of flexibility because your print can be as wide as your fabric and any length so you don’t have to worry about repeating the pattern. Digital printing can also produce an infinite array of colours so there are no limitations in that respect either, though getting the right colours can be a trial. There is often a big difference between the image produced on the screen, and the colours created by the printer so trialling is hugely necessary to get your colours right. I hope to use some digital printing within my collection to add another layer of interest within the clothing.

Starting the second toile

This is the 2^nd outfit that I plan to make for my collection, and I just wanted to explain a little bit about the process of turning this idea on paper into a fully realised set of garments.

First, I look at each of the garments and work out which I will flat pattern make and which I will drape. The back of the jacket, for example, is definitely something to drape, while the pants will be made flat around the top section, then draped around the leg. I will then piece these elements together until the shape of the final garment emerges, and from there think about details like seam finishes and fastenings. It usually takes me 5 or 6 mock-ups until I start getting something working, and through this process my initial ideas inevitably change as I work with the fabric and understand what it can and cannot do.

Toileing

Above is a mock-up of one of my looks for the end of year collection. It appears abit haphazard, but rest-assured this is progress! The top has two sets of armholes and will feature a digital print in its final incarnation. At the moment I think it is too long, so I am going to shorten and widen it for a more dramatic silhouette. The jacket that goes with this look (not pictured) was unfortunately way too small, so it’s back to the drawing board with that. The pants are finally getting there, but need more work in shaping the side seam. This is the 3^rd toile and I can see that there will be quite a few more until I am happy with the result.

Colours

After much experimentation, I have finally got my colour palette pretty much finalised. I drew inspiration from my concept poster and John Wolseley’s watercolours of Tasmanian Lichen to create an earthy palette that is made more sophisticated through incorporation of grey tones, and more visually engaging by the use of purple and coral highlights.

Fashion school bubble?

I read an article in the fashion-incubator blog a few days ago and have been wondering how to approach it. It blames an influx of interest in fashion design on Project Runway... which might be true... somewhere. I certainly haven’t heard it as a motivating factor in my course. Apart from that quibble, Kathleen does make a really valid point- that designers rely on a huge support team of people, and without an influx in those positions- sewers, cutters, patternmakers, there is no way that the amount of designers can be supported within the industry. I would argue however, that this is a natural balancing act, and as designers find it difficult to gain employment as designers, they turn to other roles in the industry. I guess it is just up to the educational institution to give students enough of a breadth of knowledge to be able to have this flexibility.

Delivery

Today I received this wonderful delivery of yarn samples from knitalpaca and I can’t wait to order more, its so delicious and soft, and the colours are naturally occurring so are really interesting.

More Knitting Samples

I have been working with this handspun yarn for a couple of weeks now and have worked it into several different types of lace. I am liking the loosest one at the moment, because I think it really shows off the variegation in the wool. I am thinking of creating a really simply shape with this one, that would layer over the top of other garments in the collection.

Sourcing Note

Ah thankfully I have been told that my Marrickville supplier hasn’t closed down- he had just moved around the corner. Its a worry in this age of information that we can’t discover these things for ourselves, but yay, worries abated!

Design Update

These are a quick overview of how the collection is coming together. We have 5 weeks to create two ‘looks’ of 3-4 garments per look, and a catalogue of 12 looks, and a textiles samples range, and... etc. etc. I foresee many late nights ahead!

Wedding Fever #2

Princess Beatrice and Eugenie

I saw this on facebook, and think it is so mean, but hilarious. We were talking about the sisters in fashion theory class, and it was decided that the worst thing about their outfits wasn’t so much the outfits, but that they were pictured together. Something for the old PR machine to think about...

Sourcing Trip #2

Today I was on the lookout for fabrics to toile in, ie. cheap versions of fabrics to use for mock-ups of designs. Imagine my horror when all my staple shops for affordable fabrics have closed since I have been away! Johnathon’s in Marrickville has disconnected their phone line, and the two in Chinatown have been replaced with discount clothing stores. There is much talk of a return to quality in the Australian fashion industry, but how is this going to be possible when all of the suppliers are going out of business?

Wedding Fever

Source: The Royal Photostream on Flickr (seriously)

I prefix this post by saying that I am the last person to cheer for the Royals, but I must begrudgingly admit that I really enjoyed watching the Royal Wedding on Friday. We had a bit of a dinner party, and Pimms and lemonade, and maybe it was the booze talking but I really thought it was nice. Maybe deep-down I am sentimental, but finally seeing Sarah Burton step out of the shadows at Alexander McQueen made me really proud to be a designer. The man was a true genius and his death presents a great loss. Personally, I had a huge admiration for him and was unsure if the label could continue without him. But now I can see that the label lives on. So best of luck to Sarah, they must be HUGE shoes to fill and from what I have seen she is living up to the high standard set by Alexander. For a massive amount of information about the wedding, and who wore what and why- here is a link to the official site.