Collection Update

Wow, June already- its amazing how quickly this year has gone. I am beginning to illustrate my collection at the moment- in preparation for the crits in two weeks. Its great to see how the colours work together across the collection and how the garments have developed over the course of this first semester.

Screen Printing and Repeats

Digital printing as explained in my last post- is great- for some applications, but sometimes you need the texture and graphic definition that only screen-printing will allow. I have included some examples of the print I am developing for the collection. At the moment there is alot of playing around with colour combinations and scale (very important). It’s amazing how a chance colour combination can produce a surprise stripe or direction. I am aiming for more of a textural creation with these prints rather than a defined image, to add interest and depth to the fabrics that I have already purchased.

Digital Printing

Digital printing on fabric is very similar to regular inkjet printing, where the fabric is fed through a large printer, with dye cartridges that are used in combination to produce the image. As a designer it gives you loads of flexibility because your print can be as wide as your fabric and any length so you don’t have to worry about repeating the pattern. Digital printing can also produce an infinite array of colours so there are no limitations in that respect either, though getting the right colours can be a trial. There is often a big difference between the image produced on the screen, and the colours created by the printer so trialling is hugely necessary to get your colours right. I hope to use some digital printing within my collection to add another layer of interest within the clothing.

Starting the second toile

This is the 2^nd outfit that I plan to make for my collection, and I just wanted to explain a little bit about the process of turning this idea on paper into a fully realised set of garments.

First, I look at each of the garments and work out which I will flat pattern make and which I will drape. The back of the jacket, for example, is definitely something to drape, while the pants will be made flat around the top section, then draped around the leg. I will then piece these elements together until the shape of the final garment emerges, and from there think about details like seam finishes and fastenings. It usually takes me 5 or 6 mock-ups until I start getting something working, and through this process my initial ideas inevitably change as I work with the fabric and understand what it can and cannot do.

Toileing

Above is a mock-up of one of my looks for the end of year collection. It appears abit haphazard, but rest-assured this is progress! The top has two sets of armholes and will feature a digital print in its final incarnation. At the moment I think it is too long, so I am going to shorten and widen it for a more dramatic silhouette. The jacket that goes with this look (not pictured) was unfortunately way too small, so it’s back to the drawing board with that. The pants are finally getting there, but need more work in shaping the side seam. This is the 3^rd toile and I can see that there will be quite a few more until I am happy with the result.

Colours

After much experimentation, I have finally got my colour palette pretty much finalised. I drew inspiration from my concept poster and John Wolseley’s watercolours of Tasmanian Lichen to create an earthy palette that is made more sophisticated through incorporation of grey tones, and more visually engaging by the use of purple and coral highlights.

Fashion school bubble?

I read an article in the fashion-incubator blog a few days ago and have been wondering how to approach it. It blames an influx of interest in fashion design on Project Runway... which might be true... somewhere. I certainly haven’t heard it as a motivating factor in my course. Apart from that quibble, Kathleen does make a really valid point- that designers rely on a huge support team of people, and without an influx in those positions- sewers, cutters, patternmakers, there is no way that the amount of designers can be supported within the industry. I would argue however, that this is a natural balancing act, and as designers find it difficult to gain employment as designers, they turn to other roles in the industry. I guess it is just up to the educational institution to give students enough of a breadth of knowledge to be able to have this flexibility.