Starting the second toile

This is the 2^nd outfit that I plan to make for my collection, and I just wanted to explain a little bit about the process of turning this idea on paper into a fully realised set of garments.

First, I look at each of the garments and work out which I will flat pattern make and which I will drape. The back of the jacket, for example, is definitely something to drape, while the pants will be made flat around the top section, then draped around the leg. I will then piece these elements together until the shape of the final garment emerges, and from there think about details like seam finishes and fastenings. It usually takes me 5 or 6 mock-ups until I start getting something working, and through this process my initial ideas inevitably change as I work with the fabric and understand what it can and cannot do.

Toileing

Above is a mock-up of one of my looks for the end of year collection. It appears abit haphazard, but rest-assured this is progress! The top has two sets of armholes and will feature a digital print in its final incarnation. At the moment I think it is too long, so I am going to shorten and widen it for a more dramatic silhouette. The jacket that goes with this look (not pictured) was unfortunately way too small, so it’s back to the drawing board with that. The pants are finally getting there, but need more work in shaping the side seam. This is the 3^rd toile and I can see that there will be quite a few more until I am happy with the result.

Colours

After much experimentation, I have finally got my colour palette pretty much finalised. I drew inspiration from my concept poster and John Wolseley’s watercolours of Tasmanian Lichen to create an earthy palette that is made more sophisticated through incorporation of grey tones, and more visually engaging by the use of purple and coral highlights.

Fashion school bubble?

I read an article in the fashion-incubator blog a few days ago and have been wondering how to approach it. It blames an influx of interest in fashion design on Project Runway... which might be true... somewhere. I certainly haven’t heard it as a motivating factor in my course. Apart from that quibble, Kathleen does make a really valid point- that designers rely on a huge support team of people, and without an influx in those positions- sewers, cutters, patternmakers, there is no way that the amount of designers can be supported within the industry. I would argue however, that this is a natural balancing act, and as designers find it difficult to gain employment as designers, they turn to other roles in the industry. I guess it is just up to the educational institution to give students enough of a breadth of knowledge to be able to have this flexibility.

Delivery

Today I received this wonderful delivery of yarn samples from knitalpaca and I can’t wait to order more, its so delicious and soft, and the colours are naturally occurring so are really interesting.

More Knitting Samples

I have been working with this handspun yarn for a couple of weeks now and have worked it into several different types of lace. I am liking the loosest one at the moment, because I think it really shows off the variegation in the wool. I am thinking of creating a really simply shape with this one, that would layer over the top of other garments in the collection.

Sourcing Note

Ah thankfully I have been told that my Marrickville supplier hasn’t closed down- he had just moved around the corner. Its a worry in this age of information that we can’t discover these things for ourselves, but yay, worries abated!